MEK9350 - Stochastic and Nonlinear Ocean Waves
Schedule, syllabus and examination date
An introduction is given to stochastic description of ocean waves, wave spectrum, wave statistics, and definition of freak waves. An introduction is also given to nonlinear wave resonance, free and bound waves, models for nonlinear wave evolution, and modulational instability.
- To compute the Fourier transform, Fourier series and DFT (Discrete Fourier Transform) by hand and on computer, and account for the relationship between Fourier series and DFT, aliasing, Nyquist frequency and Parsevals theorem.
- To describe ocean waves as a stochastic process, and have knowledge of relevant properties for stochastic processes for ocean waves such as stationary and weakly stationary process, ergodic process and narrow band process.
- Elementary wave statistics including skewness and kurtosis. Relevant distributions including normal distribution and Rayleigh distribution. Be able to explain what we mean by Gaussian sea, wave height, significant wave height, crest height and freak waves.
- To compute the wave spectrum as the Fourier transform of the auto correlation function and use the Fourier transform to estimate spectrum. Know about spectrum in several dimensions, including wave vector spectrum, wavenumber spectrum, frequency spectrum and directional spectrum.
- To explain the meaning of nonlinear wave resonance for gravity waves, and distinguish between free and bound waves.
- Basic knowledge of the difference between linear and nonlinear statistical distributions for crest heights and wave heights.
- Knowledge of simple models for nonlinear evolution of wave trains, and corresponding nonlinear phenomena such as modulational instability of Stokes waves.
PhD candidates from the University of Oslo should apply for classes and register for examinations through Studentweb.
If a course has limited intake capacity, priority will be given to PhD candidates who follow an individual education plan where this particular course is included. Some national researchers’ schools may have specific rules for ranking applicants for courses with limited intake capacity.
PhD candidates who have been admitted to another higher education institution must apply for a position as a visiting student within a given deadline.
Recommended previous knowledge
10 credits overlap with MEK4350 - Stochastic and Nonlinear Ocean Waves
*The information about overlaps is not complete. Contact the department for more information if necessary.
4 hours of lectures/exercises per week throughout the semester.
2 compulsary assignments. Depending on the number of students, the exam will be either oral or written. What form the exam will take will be announced by the teaching staff within October 15th for the autumn semester and March 15th for the spring semester.
In addition, each PhD student is expected to give a one hour oral presentation on a topic of relevance chosen in cooperation with the lecturer. The presentation has to be approved by the lecturer for the student to be admitted to the final exam.
Examination support material
Permitted aids at the exam if written: Rottmann's formula list + approved calculator. Information about approved calculators (Norwegian only)
Language of examination
Subjects taught in English will only offer the exam paper in English.
You may write your examination paper in Norwegian, Swedish, Danish or English.
Grades are awarded on a pass/fail scale. Read more about the grading system.
Explanations and appeals
Resit an examination
This course offers both postponed and resit of examination. Read more:
Withdrawal from an examination
It is possible to take the exam up to 3 times. If you withdraw from the exam after the deadline or during the exam, this will be counted as an examination attempt.
Special examination arrangements
Application form, deadline and requirements for special examination arrangements.
The course is subject to continuous evaluation. At regular intervals we also ask students to participate in a more comprehensive evaluation.