MEK4350 – Stochastic and Nonlinear Ocean Waves
Schedule, syllabus and examination date
An introduction is given to stochastic description of ocean waves, wave spectrum, wave statistics, and definition of freak waves. An introduction is also given to nonlinear wave resonance, free and bound waves, models for nonlinear wave evolution, and modulational instability.
After completing the course you will:
- know how to compute the Fourier transform, Fourier series and DFT (Discrete Fourier Transform) by hand and on computer, and account for the relationship between Fourier series and DFT, aliasing, Nyquist frequency and Parsevals theorem;
- know how to describe ocean waves as a stochastic process, and have knowledge of relevant properties for stochastic processes for ocean waves such as stationary and weakly stationary process, ergodic process and narrow band process;
- know elementary wave statistics including skewness and kurtosis. Relevant distributions including normal distribution and Rayleigh distribution;
- be able to explain what we mean by Gaussian sea, wave height, significant wave height, crest height and freak waves;
- know how to compute the wave spectrum as the Fourier transform of the auto correlation function and use the Fourier transform to estimate spectrum;
- know about spectrum in several dimensions, including wave vector spectrum, wavenumber spectrum, frequency spectrum and directional spectrum;
- know how to explain the meaning of nonlinear wave resonance for gravity waves, and distinguish between free and bound waves;
- have basic knowledge of the difference between linear and nonlinear statistical distributions for crest heights and wave heights;
- have knowledge of simple models for nonlinear evolution of wave trains, and corresponding nonlinear phenomena such as modulational instability of Stokes waves.
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Recommended previous knowledge
Should be taken in the same semester as or after MEK4320 – Hydrodynamic Wave Theory.
10 credits overlap with MEK9350 – Stochastic and Nonlinear Ocean Waves
*The information about overlaps for discontinued courses may not be complete. If you have questions, please contact the Department.
4 hours of lectures/exercises per week throughout the semester.
Upon the attendance of three or fewer students, the lecturer may, in conjunction with the Head of Teaching, change the course to self-study with supervision.
Final oral or written examination. The form of examination will be announced by the teaching staff by 15 October/15 March for the autumn semester and the spring semester respectively.
Examination support material
Written examination: Rottmann's formula list and approved calculator.
Language of examination
Subjects taught in English will only offer the exam paper in English.
You may write your examination paper in Norwegian, Swedish, Danish or English.
Grades are awarded on a scale from A to F, where A is the best grade and F is a fail. Read more about the grading system.
Explanations and appeals
Resit an examination
Students who can document a valid reason for absence from the regular examination are offered a postponed examination at the beginning of the next semester.
Re-scheduled examinations are not offered to students who withdraw during, or did not pass the original examination.
Withdrawal from an examination
It is possible to take the exam up to 3 times. If you withdraw from the exam after the deadline or during the exam, this will be counted as an examination attempt.
Special examination arrangements
Application form, deadline and requirements for special examination arrangements.
The course is subject to continuous evaluation. At regular intervals we also ask students to participate in a more comprehensive evaluation.